Just imagine all the poo.

One of the things I really like about lingering in places longer than absolutely necessary to see all the big tourist sites is that I can generally be open to a lot more aimless wandering. Instead of rushing from church to market to church, I also have plenty of time to stop and see the small bits of life in between.

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In Istanbul, this was nowhere truer than when I stumbled upon the weekly pigeon market in Edirnekapi. Originally walking with the old city walls, from a dead end I spotted a crowd tucked into a parking lot just beside the old fortifications.

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My crowd was in fact the weekly Istanbul Pigeon Market, where doters come to buy/sell/trade pigeons to keep as pets or train and sell at sometimes impressive profits. A couple of people told me they had come from as far away as Ankara just to visit the market.

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Later, asking for more information when I was with an Itanbullu who spoke English, I was told that many of these pigeons are trained to home in on their cages from vast distances. More devious trainers will even sell these trained birds to the unwary, knowing that at the first chance of freedom the animals will return to the vendor’s cage for a quick and easy profit.

Caveat emptor, eh?

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This is the way the World Ends

No matter how hard I try, I seem to still go into a new city with certain expectations already in place. For Vienna, then, I was assuming there would be music/coffee/schnitzel/beer.

If I were to try to guess where in the world I might come across autonomous fighting robots, Japan would be right at the top of the list. Vienna? Quite close to the bottom.

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Imagine the surprise of all, then, when a group of Polish engineers mentioned that they were in town for the RobotChallenge 2012. Midst a clamor of popular demand, they even brought two of the battle-bots down to have a go at each other right in the middle of the hostel bar.

See that moment where the robot rights himself and seeks out an enemy? That was the moment we were all doomed. Robot Apocalypse 2015!

(There’s a bit of foul language in the video, FYI. You shouldn’t let your children watching the beginning of the end, anyways.)

 

This, my people, is why I stay in hostels. Not for the dorm beds or shared showers. For the robot wars under the pool table in the bar.

Categories: Austria, Video Blogs | Tags: , | 2 Comments

First Reflections on Turkmenistan

The Man/Myth/Legend

There’s a reason Turkmenistan is sometimes referred to as the North Korea of Central Asia. The tourist rules are super restrictive, there’s a huge cult of personality built up around the former ruler (Turkmenbashi – literally “Leader of all Turkmen”), the state long controlled most media and nearly all of the resources, and the first city is swarming with Soviet-style statuary.

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Though the rest of the country isn’t too different from the rest of Central Asia the capital city Ashgabat feels like more of a Disneyland Central Asia. A city of palaces, full of fountains in a notoriously harsh desert, and so many soldiers and police on the streets that I feared more for my safety of mind from them than from any criminal element. Within one day of arriving in Turkmenistan, two plain-clothes cops had already tried to shake me down for a bribe!

Tribute to the Turkmenbashi

Throughout the country, natural resources are provided to the population at a pittance. Several people told me that pay less than $15 a YEAR for natural gas and electricity, and each year the government provides coupons for months’ worth of gas to every registered vehicle owner. Once the coupons run out, gasoline retails for as low as .54 Manat a liter. Converted to USD, that works out to around $.72 per gallon!

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The last thing that struck me as really strange was how reluctant people were to be photographed. Even at markets, generally one of my favorite places in Central Asia to shoot, maybe 1 in every 10 people gave me a positive response when I asked if I could take their pictures.

Still, there were some really cool places to visit in the country and I met some good folks on the way. There’s gonna be a lot of Central Asia showing up on the site soon, and Turkmenistan will be a common sight around here for a while.

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Hungry in Istanbul?

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Soooo much food to try in Istanbul, and so few days!

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My constant culinary companion in the city was without doubt those tiny but strong Turkish coffees.

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Sometimes served simply, sometimes with panache (and a side of Turkish Delight), these things powered my day much more than any other source of nourishment. Tired of walking? Stop for a coffee! Sit and have a read? Stop for a coffee! Is it raining again and draining all your desire to explore the streets of Istanbul? Stop for a coffee!

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A man cannot live on this slow-roasted nectar alone, though, and luckily the food lives up to its reputation as well. I dined at restaurants made famous by Anthony Bourdain and waterfront porches overlooking the Bosphorous, but I seem to have been so hungry that I never stopped to take a picture.

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The street food, luckily, offers plenty of fodder both for the lens and the stomach. In the main square of Sultanahmet, roasted chestnuts and hot tea and ears of cobbed corn could be had almost anytime of the day or not.

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And of course, as it the rest weren’t enough, where do you think the Doner Durum comes from? Not only is the food tasty and filling, but beside the braziers make a great place to hide for a moment out of the wind and rain while waiting!

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Travel Budget: Austria

I had to spend about two weeks in Austria in order to get a number of visas (which prices, though considerable, are not included here) for Central Asia. It really is a nice city to wander around, with all sorts of cafes and museums to spend time in and during nice weather lots of parks to explore.

Money-saving tips are pretty much the same for all of Europe: eat cheap and stay in hostels. In particular there are doner stands all around Vienna from around 3 Euro, which is way cheaper than a proper restaurant meal.

Also, if you’ll be there fora while, get the longest-term transport card that makes sense. I found out as I was about to leave that they offer a month-long metro/bus/tram card that would have cut my transport costs in half. Oops.

Uncharacteristically, I spent two nights in a proper hotel right as I arrived to Vienna. Sometimes, though, you just need a bit of luxury and comfort for a few days!

Categories: Austria, Budgeting | Tags: , | Leave a comment