Central Asia
The Warm Embrace of Tajikistan
Real, honest, open hospitality is a truly amazing thing. This tradition runs deep through the cultures of most of Central Asia, but in my experiences nowhere near as much as Tajikistan. Though there are some really well-run and welcoming homestays in Tajikistan’s Fan Mountains, they don’t quite cover the whole region. How fortunate, then, that … Continue reading
Always better by surprise.
Few things in life beat the joy of an unexpected festival. Imagine, then, my surprise. I”m on a hilltop overlooking the town of Istravshan in Tajikistan. As the day draws to a close, more and more people pour onto the top of town from the streets below. It struck me as nothing peculiar, though, until … Continue reading
Tamerlane was Here: The Crown of Central Asia
“For lust of knowing what should not be known, We take the Golden Road to Samarkand.” -The Story of Hassan of Baghdad, by James Elroy Flecker Samarkand is Timur is Samarkand. Though not the place where he was born (which honor belongs to Shakrisabz), Samarkand became the beating heart of Central Asia largely because Timur … Continue reading
Too Lazy to Care
Contrary to what everyone I know in America seems to think, long-term independent travel is not just some big happy vacation. Crossing from Uzbekistan to Tajikistan was one of the most-hassle filled two days of my life, and by the time I got to Khojand I was feeling downright lazy. I spent about an hour, … Continue reading
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