Tajikistan might actually me one of my favorite countries anywhere, even if I didn’t realize it at the time. Crazy beautiful mountains, amazing people all over those same mountains, cities with just enough Western luxury (I’m looking at you, Dushanbe Segafredo), and so many things to do that a year or two in the country … Continue reading
The easiest way to reach the Wakhan is via shared-taxi from Khorog to Ishkashim. Several weekly busses leave from Ishkashim to Langar, at the other end of the Tajik Wakhan. Another option is to cross the border into Afghanistan from Ishkashim, at which point you can continue past Langar and deep into the Upper Wakhan.
In the greatest American tradition, I and 1-6 of my closest (proximal) friends hit the open road in vast expanse of the Tajik Pamirs. What does the Great Pamiri Road-Trip look like? Well, I’m glad you asked.
Real, honest, open hospitality is a truly amazing thing. This tradition runs deep through the cultures of most of Central Asia, but in my experiences nowhere near as much as Tajikistan. Though there are some really well-run and welcoming homestays in Tajikistan’s Fan Mountains, they don’t quite cover the whole region. How fortunate, then, that … Continue reading
Few things in life beat the joy of an unexpected festival. Imagine, then, my surprise. I”m on a hilltop overlooking the town of Istravshan in Tajikistan. As the day draws to a close, more and more people pour onto the top of town from the streets below. It struck me as nothing peculiar, though, until … Continue reading
Contrary to what everyone I know in America seems to think, long-term independent travel is not just some big happy vacation. Crossing from Uzbekistan to Tajikistan was one of the most-hassle filled two days of my life, and by the time I got to Khojand I was feeling downright lazy. I spent about an hour, … Continue reading
There are times that, honestly, I can’t really explain why. A place just grabs me, without much of a clear reason way. Istravshan was, I think, one of those. Though of some prominence in Tajikistan’s history, today Istravshan is just a small-town with a big bazaar and a couple of historic mosques and mausoleums. It … Continue reading