Uzbekistan

Back in Beautiful Bukhara

If you ever hear me going on and on about some city in Uzbekistan that I love beyond reason, Bukhara is the one. I would go around shouting it from the rooftops if they weren’t so crumbly and I thought they would bear my weight. Make all the Borat/catapault jokes you want, but if Uzbekistan … Continue reading »

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Quiet Kalon

I find myself kind of missing Central Asia, and especially Uzbekistan. This is a very quiet photo, I know, but it evokes for me a very specific feeling. Bukhara is one of the handful of spots in Uzbekistan, maybe even just a handful in Central Asia, that are truly touristy. Big busses full of geriatric … Continue reading »

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Funeral Crashers?

Whats that, you say? A 3rd Century B.C.(E.) fortress? And its across a small valley from a 4th Century Mausoleum Complex? Of course I’m in! I’d not really intended to check out Mizdakhan while I was in Nukus, but I’d agreed to rent a car to visit a bunch of mid-desert sandcastles on the way … Continue reading »

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Away from the Uzbek Deserts

After so much time spent in dusty deserts and historic old towns of Uzbekistan, I often feel the pull to get out and find some green spaces. While reading through an old Uzbekistan Airways in-flight mag that someone had stolen and left in my guesthouse in Khiva, I saw an article on the 500 year-old … Continue reading »

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The Kind People of Khiva

I rolled into Khiva expecting to probably stay two or three nights, and ended up lingering for a week. The Old Town is pretty, but that wasn’t nearly enough of a draw. Instead it was the perfect combination of comfortable/cheap guesthouse, the right mindset, and (most importantly) really friendly people who were forever patient with … Continue reading »

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Central Asian Death Polo

In perhaps the craziest invention in sports since Aztec Death Soccer, several Central Asian countries host a traditional sport to rival the most dangerous and unregulated competition since match-fixing in the Serie A. Kopkari is popular through much of the horse-loving region of Central Asia, but I finally came across a match at the Toprak … Continue reading »

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Travel Budget: Uzbekistan

Oh, Uzbekistan, you really are one of my favorites. Cheap hotels and food, reasonable transport, and amazing cities that makes me want to linger. If you could just get that visa hassle fixed, you’d be rich on the coffers of stunned travelers from around the world. The only thing here that really needs describing, I … Continue reading »

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I’ll have a Double UzMac, please.

Central Asia seems sometimes like one of the last parts of the world where Mass Food hasn’t yet penetrated. Though something other than NesCafe would be welcome on occasion, I’ve never seen so much as a Starbucks in the whole region. Imagine my surprise, then: I legitimately did a double take, like some cheesy scene … Continue reading »

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