Tagged With: Hospitality

Shootin’ the Sheki

Lonely Planet would have you believe that Sheki is the crown jewel of traveling in Azerbaijan, reason enough in and of itself to visit the country. This is not entirely true, but only because there are cooler places in the nation. Indeed thinking back on Azerbaijan, I think we met more and nicer people in … Continue reading »

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Hitching and Homestays on the Afghan Frontier

Part of the reason Afghanistan was such a great travel experience was that people were so amazingly helpful and friendly and willing to sort out three random foreigners who showed up for a look around. What could have been a rather disorganized and uncomfortable experience was made amazing through the kindness and hospitality of the … Continue reading »

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The Little Hilltop Village that Saved my Opinion of Azerbaijan

After a ton of bad experiences and disappointments in the rest of Azerbaijan, it  took one final destination to restore any semblance of pleasure to my time in the country. I liked almost everything about Xinaliq, and spent more than twice the time there than any other place in Azerbaijan. Even the drive in was … Continue reading »

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Tajik Family Portraits

How many times does it take being invited in for tea in Central Asia before it gets old? I’ve had a lot of these experiences, so far, and I’m still going strong. We originally met this kid at the neighborhood water pump, hauling home about 8 gallons of water. What would have probably taken him … Continue reading »

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Dance Party: Azerbaijan

One of the nights I spent in Lahic, the family who owned the guesthouse Jason and I were staying at had their cousins in from out of town to celebrate… Something. After a long hard day of hiking in Lahic, they were kind enough to invite Jason and I to join in on the action. … Continue reading »

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Portraits of Afghanistan

Much more than landscapes or bazaars or food, Afghanistan was about the people we met along the way. People who generally expressed a genuine interest in us, were very willing to engage, and just seemed so… normal I guess? So, here, I want you to meet some of them. These are not all the people … Continue reading »

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Afghan Anxiety

“Good Luck!” With that as the send-off, we were beyond the Tajik border in no-mans-land on the way to Afghanistan. I honestly don’t think I’d ever felt true anxiety until that moment. So many thoughts, so quickly. Is this a terrible idea? Are we making a mistake? Should I tell people I’m American? By doing … Continue reading »

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Family Dinner in Tajikistan

You know one of the things I really love about Central Asia? The tradition of hospitality. I was just walking down the street in Istaravshan having a wander at the end of a transit day, and asked these dudes whether the left turn or right turn down their street lead to more interesting things. They … Continue reading »

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