How many times does it take being invited in for tea in Central Asia before it gets old? I’ve had a lot of these experiences, so far, and I’m still going strong. We originally met this kid at the neighborhood water pump, hauling home about 8 gallons of water. What […]
Travel Words
Katta Langar Mausoleum in Uzbekistan
After so much time spent in dusty deserts and historic old towns of Uzbekistan, I often feel the pull to get out and find some green spaces. While reading through an old Uzbekistan Airways in-flight mag that someone had stolen and left in my guesthouse in Khiva, I saw an […]
Lahic Azerbaijan Guesthouse Dance Party
One of the nights I spent in Lahic, the family who owned the guesthouse Jason and I were staying at had their cousins in from out of town to celebrate… Something. After a long hard day of hiking in Lahic, they were kind enough to invite Jason and I to […]
Ruins of Konye-Urgench
En route from Ashgabat and the Darvaza Gas Crater to the Uzbek border and Khiva is one of Central Asia’s saddest historical sites and most poignant memories: the ruins of Konye-Urgench. With the dubious honor of being one of the bloodiest massacres in human history, Genghis Khan’s destruction of Konye-Urgench […]
Sultanahmet
Istanbul: Sultanahmet Sultanahmet is the tourist heart of Istanbul, home to the Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque and Basilica Cistern and more hotels and guesthouses than I care to remember. For good reason, too. The whole neighborhood is resplendent with beautiful old architecture and street food and Istanbul highlights, and […]
Portraits of Afghanistan
Much more than landscapes or bazaars or food, Afghanistan was about the people we met along the way. People who generally expressed a genuine interest in us, were very willing to engage, and just seemed so… normal I guess? So, here, I want you to meet some of them. These […]