Prince’s Islands:
An Istanbul Daytrip
The Princes’ Islands, once home to Istanbul’s exiled elite and now the scene of a self-imposed summer escape from the city, had been in my consciousness for months before I finally visited on my 4th visit to the city.
These islands, and particularly the largest of Büyükada, are (if guidebooks are to be believed) most spectacularly explored by rented bicycle as a daytrip from the city itself.
Along with Ryan, a chance-met Chicagoan who by strange kismet happened to stay in the same hostel in Athens and then catch the same flight to Istanbul, I finally found the inclination to test this Lonely Planet suggestion on a beautiful day without plans in one of my favorite cities anywhere.
While the ferry ride from Kabatas is relatively nondescript, the island itself is an excellent place to explore. Covered in forest, grazed by horses, and topped by the strange and most-surely-haunted ex-orphanage seen below.
Somewhere between dodging racing horse carts and scoping the island for ideal vantage points of the monastery, we also managed to find quite a few nice landscapes and ponderous spots to look out over the Sea of Maramara as it drifts away from Turkey.
We also came across what seemed to be the center of the horse racket, an oversized stable on the coast guarded by burly horse-men who would brook no trespassers.
We managed to get a small way in, but their verbal assault sent us quickly back to our bicycles.
Finally, tiring of the horse crowds and ache-inducing uphills, we dropped out rental bikes off and camped out on the waterfront for a bit of backgammon. I won this game, but only just barely.
Returning to Istanbul, after an hours’ rest on the ferry ride home, we were undoubtedly dreaming of fresh fish sandwiches from the food carts near the docks.
For yet another moment, as food and ferry and fun all aligned perfectly in my day, I remember why I keep dropping in to visit Istanbul every time I get the chance.
